Linen - fabric for summer days

We all know linen fabrics and nice linen pants, skirts or jackets are the right choice for summer. Linen clothes are beautifully airy, cool, and if you find linen with an adjustment, we will also get rid of unwanted wrinkling.

Flax is one of the oldest fiber textiles, which was already cultivated at the beginning of the 7th millennium BC in Mesopotamia for ropes, nets, but later also for fabrics. From there, flax cultivation spread to Egypt, Persia, the Mediterranean and India. In Europe, the first discovery of linen products is in Spain, 4 thousand years later. In 1770, Maria Theresa issued a patent for the cultivation of flax and its spinning. Today, flax is grown in the foothills and is imported to us, for example, from Poland and China.

Flax is an annual plant that must be sown very densely to maintain thin stalks. Flax flowers are in the blue color of the flower cover with five calyx petals and five corolla petals. Flax flowers ripen into a five-shell capsule of various sizes and shapes with brown seeds. Most often, oil flax , oil -spun flax is cultivated - it is mainly grown for the oil from the seeds, but also for fiber and spun flax - the stem from which the flax is obtained is up to 1 m long.

Flax is harvested after the leaves turn yellow and fall off. During harvest, the flax is pulled out with the roots and left to lie in the field so that the stalks harden. After this process, the flax becomes dewy, soaked, and undergoes a putrid process that separates the woody part of the stem. After this process, they just have to dry and break. When breaking, wood chips fall off, which is called Pazdeří. Next, the flax is rubbed and rolled, and short tow fibers fall off, which are used for plumbing plugs.

Flax fibers consist of 28% cellulose and also contain pectins and waxes. Under the microscope, we can only recognize it by the transverse extension, which resembles a blade of grass with a spike. If you don't have a microscope, you can only tell with the help of a combustion test. Linen fabrics burn more slowly than cotton, thanks to a more woody penetration, and the smell is like burning paper. The ash after burning is dark gray.

A typical property of flax is its wrinkle, which can be partially prevented with the help of a special treatment - cotonization. Cotonization is the loosening of flax , where the fibers are cut to the length of the cotton fibers and spun like cotton . Other properties of linen include less shrinkage than cotton fabrics, good water absorption and coolness.

What properties does it have?

Property	Property description	Intensity (1-5)
Color fastness	good color fastness	4
Absorbency, absorption	high absorption	4
Tensile strength	high tensile strength	4
Resistance to mold and bacteria	natural resistance to mold and bacteria	4
Aesthetic impression	matte surface with texture	3
Wear resistance	medium wear resistance	3
Chemical resistance	moderate resistance to chemicals	3
Sense of touch	slightly rough to the touch	2
Adhesion to the surface	low adhesion	2

 

How to sew and how to work with it

What to use for sewing aids (needles, threads, sewing machines)

Linen fabric is easy to sew but requires specific tools for better results. For hand sewing, we recommend using sharper needles with a longer eye, while round tip needles are suitable for sewing machines. Linen or cotton thread is the best choice for sewing linen materials. When using a sewing machine, set the correct thread tension.

How to work with linen (cutting, sewing, gluing)

When cutting linen fabric, it is important to use sharp scissors and be careful to avoid shifting the material. When sewing, work at a slower speed and use simple stitches. Gluing linen fabrics is not recommended because the glue can leave visible marks.

How to maintain linen

• Washing

Linen fabric requires gentle washing. It is recommended to wash at low temperatures (30-40 °C) and use a delicate cycle. To maintain the quality of the material and color, use gentle detergents without bleach.

• Ironing  

Linen materials wrinkle easily, so ironing is important. Iron at a medium temperature using steam and always on a damp cloth. You can also use an ironing mat or a piece of cotton fabric to protect the fabric.

• Drying

The drying of linen fabric should be done naturally. Avoid the dryer, which can damage the fabric. Drying in a tumble dryer or outside in the shade is ideal to prevent color fading.

With what fabrics to combine linen

Linen is easily combined with different types of materials such as cotton , silk or viscose to create unique and interesting textures and looks. You can combine linen fabrics with colorful and neutral shades, allowing you to create diverse combinations according to your taste. Finishes such as printing, embroidery or appliqué can also be used on linen materials to achieve interesting effects and emphasize their natural beauty.

What to sew from linen

Linen is suitable for layering in the clothing industry, as it is a breathable and light material. Layering can include combining linen outerwear with silk or cotton blouses for comfort and a sophisticated look. Details such as lace, edging or fringes can be added to linen garments to make their design even more interesting. Decorations on linen materials can include embroideries, appliqués or prints to give the garments a unique and distinctive style.

What is the processing of flax and its production

Raw materials and resources

Linen is a natural material obtained from a plant called bast. The resources of flax are renewable, which makes it an environmentally friendly material. Synthetic and recycled varieties of linen are not commonly available, as the main appeal of linen is its naturalness and traditional character.

Production process

The production of linen fabric involves several steps, such as harvesting the plants, processing the fibers, spinning, weaving or knitting, and dyeing. Weaving is the most common method of processing linen, but knitted linen fabrics are no exception, offering greater flexibility and comfort.

Quality control and safety

Quality control and safety of linen fabrics includes compliance with standards, certifications and environmental impacts. Some brands offer certified organic or fair trade flax, which ensures a gentler and more socially responsible production. The ecological impact of flax is relatively low due to its natural sources and processing methods.

Technological innovation of processing

Although linen is a traditional material, it is constantly evolving thanks to technological innovations such as smart textiles, 3D printing and nanotechnology. Smart textiles can include linen fabrics with integrated sensors or electronics to improve comfort and functionality. 3D printing enables the creation of complex shapes and structures from linen materials. Nanotechnology can be used to improve the properties of linen, for example increasing resistance to water, dirt or microorganisms.

Ecological impact and sustainability

Linen is considered an environmentally friendly material because it comes from renewable sources and has a relatively low impact on the environment.

Flax production is sustainable with minimal water and pesticide requirements. Flax is often grown in areas with natural irrigation, reducing the need for artificial irrigation. In addition, the flax plant has a high fiber yield, which means that a large amount of fiber can be obtained from one plant.

Recycling

Linen fabrics can be recycled, which contributes to their sustainability. Linen recycling involves the collection and processing of used linen fabrics and the reprocessing of the fibers into new textiles or products. Recycled linen can also be mixed with other materials such as cotton to create blends with new properties and functions.

Working conditions

The production of flax should ensure fair working conditions for the farmers and workers involved in the processing and production of the fabrics. This includes providing a living wage, ensuring safe working conditions and respecting workers' rights.

• Fair trade

Some manufacturers and brands offer fair trade linen , which ensures that the production of linen is socially responsible and fair. Fair trade certification ensures that farmers and workers get a fair price for their products and that supply chains are transparent and sustainable.

• Cruelty-free

Linen fabrics are cruelty-free, which means that they are not associated with animal cruelty or exploitation. Being only a plant material, its production does not require any animal products or cause animal suffering. In this way, it is just the right material for those interested in ethical and cruelty-free fashion.

photo: google.com